National Museum

I finally made it to the national museum. And it was almost worth it. Being critical it is another missed opportunity at encouraging tourists to spend money. There was no guide to purchase and no real shop. There was also very little information (cards frequently provided unhelpful details such as “Some crystal works 20th century”) and an eclectic array of artifacts. Including many which didn’t seem to have any relevance to Nepal.


We started off in the doll collection with cabinet after cabinet of dolls representing different countries. There was no standard doll so I came to the conclusion that each country had donated dolls representing itself. The dolls themselves were generally grubby and thick with dust, mothballs were scattered around. And there did not appear to be any logical sequence to the countries. Pakistan and Sri Lanka were buffered in one section by Israel.


Then followed several life-size tableaux of daily life in Nepal, finishing off with a nice cave-man scene. Although I couldn’t say whether prehistoric man has ever been found here.


The stuffed animals were an absolute gem with birds at quirky angles falling off branches save for their stapled claws. The skin of a buffalo’s two-headed calf was also priceless, one fetlock having broken free from it’s pins and dangling uncomfortably in the air. There was also the mandibular bones of a whale. Featured in the national collection of a land-locked country.


The rest of the museum was less interesting; armoury, stamps, coins, metal work and woodwork. But I did see a fascinating device called an Electric Gun. This seemed to be a rifle suspended within a large contraption (possibly the recharger). I didn’t see how it would be any use in a combat situation. Especially in a country with very little power (up to 12 hours a day of no electricity now and still counting).


I may have had my fill of Nepali museums now.

Momo Magic

Cooking Dahl Bhat

A couple of weeks ago V, N, K, J and I went for a cooking course near the Bouddha stupa. It took place in a German hotel that J had stayed in. We were joined by two other volunteers and spent the morning making an array of Nepali staples: tomato, sesame and cucumber pickles’, momo’s, barra (a lentil flour pancake), chiya and the obligatory dahl bhat. The down side of this is that we were exposed to the outrageous levels of oil and salt used in Nepali cooking. The rules of thumb appeared to be that you could never get enough of either of these ingredients and if in doubt, add more oil or salt. We were regularly reprimanded for our judicious use of salt with more being thrown into our dishes regardless. The amount of ginger and garlic we got through was also phenomenal but this can only be a good thing.

After the lesson we sat outside to taste our efforts which were pretty good, even if our momo’s did break away from the traditional form. The photo above shows the momo’s ready for steaming. I’ll endeavor to hold a few Nepali dinner’s when I get back.
NB Momo Magic is also the name of my favourite momo restaurant in Kathmandu.

This is Holi

So Holi was much as anticipated and I got very colourful. I decided to go to Gorkha for the weekend to check out the palace. I am trying to visit a few more places before my parents get here in case there are some hidden gems that I need to show them. Gorkha may well be one of them but the hideous bus journey, 1500 steps to get up there and the fact that we can’t set foot inside it (as non-Hindu’s) may just rule it off the list.

I arrived late on Saturday and was pretty glad I did as I had finished my book on the way and had no other form of entertainment. I went out looking for something to read but was thwarted by the lack of a bookshop. I did get a copy of the Kathmandu Post and out of desperation also bought the January 17th edition that was yellowing in the window (for which I was charged full price!).

In the morning (of Holi) I set off early to reach the palace at the top of the hill. I had read about the steps and assumed that once I hit the trail I would be on my own. Unfortunately (today at least) there are shops and homes all the way to the top which meant that I felt like I was running a gauntlet as children shot water pistols and threw water balloons at me. Luckily the little ones were a really poor aim and I got away lightly. The other line of attack is to rush up and put dye over my face. I didn’t really mind this and knelt down so they could reach me. It was on my way back through the main village when the attention and dye got a bit much for me. Older boys, well into their twenties (one man politely asked to cover me in dye and then struck up a conversation telling me he was a police man!), roamed in gangs and rushed me rubbing their hands all over my face. It was a bit intimidating and I was really glad to get back on the bus. Though for the whole drive home we were doused in water every time we stopped to let in more passengers.

Barbequed buffalo

Look at this amazing picture I managed to take while on a stroll along the river with N. We’re not totally sure about the rationale behind blow-torching a buffalo but I guess it must be something to do with preserving or preparing the leather. While I was taking this a supervisor shouted at me not to take any photographs so I'm glad I got this one.

Simi and Megan's Nepali Adventure

I am recently back form my first proper holiday here as Simi came out to visit for ten days. We had a fantastic time spent trekking, relaxing in Pokhara and walking in Kathmandu. The first day was a slight concern as we travelled by bus to Pokhara. We had decided to go over-land instead of flying so Simi could see a bit of the country but we had the worst weather I’ve ever experienced here. Constant rain, mist and fog in the valleys and gorges and very cold. I was getting a bit nervous when it was still like this on arrival in Pokhara but we ploughed on hiring our trekking equipment and getting our permits for the national park. After de-camping in the Vienna Lake Lodge I took Simi to the Rice Bowl restaurant where I have previously discovered cheese balls which are the most amazing treats in the world. I have never eaten them anywhere else (knowing my capacity for greed and new-found lack of self-restraint) but Simi’s arrival triggered the hunt for the best cheese balls so they were a regular order wherever we were. (We disagreed on the final outcome and I would say the originals are still the best while Simi plumped for those served at the Castle). We set off the next morning for an hour and a half drive to Nayapul where we started our trek. Kumar was our porter and had to struggle under the weight of our belongings. He was lovely but a bare-faced liar when it came to explaining distances and hours left to walk! The scenery was just stunning – we walked through little villages with beautiful guest houses draped in brightly coloured flowers and the Himalayas were so clear and breath-taking for the whole journey. In the end we were very lucky with the weather since the previous days rain had left the sky bright and clear. Also we came across lots of goats and several ‘trains’ of horses all brightly decorated which are used to transport goods along the routes. The trail caters very well for trekkers and there are shops and hotels right along the route.

Our first stop for the night was in Ulleri after a grueling climb up thousands of steps. The guest houses are lovely with the evenings being spent around a stove in the dining room and meeting other trekkers. The rooms are basic but we always had a twin room rather than a dorm which we weren’t expecting. The first night however turned out to be deeply traumatic. Just as I was nodding off to sleep I heard a loud flurry of scurrying and wing flappage right next to my head. We had an external wall and for the next few hours there were regular noises of something running up and down the wall which was so thin it felt as if the creatures were in the room with us. Immediately I crossed over to Simi’s bed but since they were smaller than your average single this was not a sustainable option. Eventually I pulled my bed across to Simi’s and slept away from the wall. Although we still had to contend with a noisy snorer who we initially mistook for a cow mooing.

The next day we expected things to be a little easier since we were told that we had broken the back of the journey by making it all the way to Ulleri. This was not the case however and it was still a difficult day. Made worse by the snow which we found out about from a couple of Korean girls who were trekking without a porter…but with a compass! They were clearly more professional than they were letting on as they found it hilarious that we had pyjamas with us. We didn’t mention the make-up bags we also hefted around. Anyway they informed us that the weather had been atrocious the day before. Luckily for us that was the end of it and it meant we enjoyed walking through a landscape strangely reminiscent of the Alps. Well, I enjoyed it. Simi had a bit more trouble and we regularly made a human chain with me in front holding one hand and Kumar behind holding the other much to the bemusement of other passing (and experienced) trekkers. There were still a few tumbles though and it was pretty hairy at times as there was generally a sheer drop on one side of the path. Still we finally made it to Ghorepani and were rewarded with a fantastic, clear view of the Annapurna range. The village was very picturesque and we pottered around for all of five minutes before collapsing in front of the stove again and eating for the rest of the evening.

I should also point out here that on discovery of the snow the previous evening and the sight of many peoples sopping wet shoes and socks I became a little obsessed with finding plastic bags to put around my feet, under my shoes. I thought this was genius and the porters also seemed to be impressed. I did manage to fashion my plastic booties later on and was looking forward to feeling smug when everyone else had wet feet but sadly despite my precautions it never really got wet and my invention was not put to the test.

Despite the exertions of the previous day the final day was undoubtedly the toughest. We rose at 5ish to clamber to the top of Poon Hill for sunrise. I was forced to cave in and for the first time purchased a Twix (I had been trying not to buy anything that needed packaging/importing) as I had no idea how anyone intended to climb for 3 hours before breakfast without a snack but this certainly appeared to be the case and even Simi managed it. What followed was a hideous walk in the dark, with a torch and our sticks. The walk seemed never-ending and we almost didn’t make it for the sunrise as a sliver of yellow opened up a good 20 minutes before we reached the summit. However we did finally get there and made a triumphant High Sticks as the sun came up. After much photography and gasping we shuffled back down the hill. I had my first (and only) fall when I ended up on my arse, while Simi rarely seemed to be standing (sorry hon, but it’s true). A quick breakfast and we were on our way again for a seven-hour mammoth push to the end.

The morning was spent in the snow before finally reaching dry ground. The day covered all types of landscape: terracing, mountainous, rocky but it was a long, long day with several perilous footbridges. By the time we reached Tatopani we were exhausted. After checking in to our little bungalow and doing a quick ‘Gecko Watch’ we headed down to the hot springs which were the climax of the trip. We had an uncomfortable few minutes undressing in the open air and having the obligatory wash before getting in. But once in we had a whale of a time. There was an eclectic range of music from the 90’s pumping out of the speakers (Blue: One Love, Shaggy: Angel) and we spent about two hours in the hot water only to get out and stagger up yet another staircase back to the hotel. Our joints and muscles were seizing up and we were shuffling about like a pair of Granny’s. This lasted well into the next day and we had trouble getting in and out of the bus to get back to Pokhara.

View from the cafe in Pokhara

Inside the Woh eatery

Our days in Pokhara were then restricted to pretty much doing nothing. We could hardly bear to climb into a rowing boat so we spent one day sitting at a café over looking the lake all day (also the day of the White Wine Fiasco) and the second day at a lovely resort in the hills behind our guest house featuring a (freezing cold) pool which could also be described as refreshing and a specialty dish of chocolate momos (in case I haven’t mentioned the momo’s yet these a small steamed dumplings of either vegetables, chicken or buff – they are tasty little bites and a sweet version was just the ticket and good to counter all the cheese balls). We also enjoyed a perfectly chilled bottle of rose as the sun went down. Pathetically we had to take a taxi back down to our hotel which was all of 200 yards away because of the calf and thigh pain.
The next day we took the return bus to Kathmandu and again managed to travel on a day of poor weather thus thwarting Simi’s final chance to view the countryside. Back home we headed out to Patan Durbar Square for a wander. This is a gorgeous part of town with fascinating architecture. I was trying to locate a tiny neighborhood food place which is renowned locally for it’s Newari cuisine. I had heard about it from a friend but never found it before. This time however we had directions and found a small doorway leading down a dark and greasy corridor. We psyched each other up to enter and eventually found ourselves at the end of the passageway and stepping into a low-ceilinged, dingy, dark room with small stools and low tables. There was dried meat hanging from the rafters. Two women were sitting on their haunches – one continually making a kind of pancake with an egg cracked onto one side and fried, the other surveying a range of pots of different curries. It was quite busy and we found ourselves a table. We weren’t quite sure what to do as there is no menu but we managed to befriend the waiter and I gestured to all the dishes asking for ‘alli alli’ of everything. I think Simi and I were so proud of ourselves for managing to find, pluck up the courage to enter, and order food that we ignored the fact that we weren’t really so taken with the food. Some of the dishes were tasty but it wasn’t overwhelming and I don’t really know why it’s so well regarded. Given that we had been receiving a fair few stares through out our meal we decided to make ourselves even less discreet by taking photographs. After this we had a wander round Thamel for souvenir shopping then headed to Or2K (Israeli restaurant) for dinner and drinks.

The next day, after Simi finally got a taste of Sunita’s amazing dahl bhat, which she compared to her own mothers cooking (big compliment for Sunita!), we walked over to Baber Mahal which is a smart shopping and restaurant complex. We decided against eating there and plumped for a South Indian place listed in the guide book. We took a micro which Simi thought was hilarious – I think the novelty has worn off on me! After lunch we took a wander around the back streets of the old town. Walking down New Road I spotted a sign for Kathmandu’s revolving restaurant. I couldn’t walk by without a quick look and am so glad I did. It was located at the top of a slightly worse for wear shopping complex. No lift, so we walked up the 4 or 5 floors to the roof-top. Inside the circular room there was one table of guests eating lunch but no revolving to speak of. After a quick chat to a waiter it turns out that it does revolve – we just happened to pop in during a power cut. We were told to return after load shedding! During this meander I also got my first taste of the festival of Holi. It sounds innocent enough according to this quote “This day, playful people especially the young ones wander through the streets in groups on foot or vehicles with various colors smeared all over them and the people in houses make merry throwing colors and water balloons at each other and also to these people on the streets”. It is not like this. Malevolent adolescents stand on upper storey balconies to bombard passers by with water balloons. I am now wary of all youths and dislike walking around outside school hours. So far I feel I have been lucky: the water bombs have only made it to my feet and I have not suffered with coloured dyes yet but I’m sure it’s only a matter of time. Holi itself is actually celebrated on Sunday but the kids start early and we’ve been warned not to walk around the centre of town on the day. Really not liking this celebration. In the evening we went to Lobsters for a drink at the bar – apparently the only place in Nepal where you can buy lobster which is not something I have been missing but good to know should I ever the need. We followed this with lunch at a pizza place despite an initial search for a good dahl bhat for Simi’s final night. The evening ended with our knowledge of alcohol being tested and rewarded (with more alcohol) by the food and drink consultant in charge of Moods – a bizarre Egyptian themed bar. Although I did need the decor explained to me as it was not immediately apparent (the photo above is us in Moods, see, not obvious).

Gutted that Simi had to leave me bereft. I was sorely tempted to get on the plane with her. Thanks for coming out - I had the best time and won't forget our trip, especially stretch-gate, Poon Hill-gate and Twix-gate xxx