Barbequed buffalo

Look at this amazing picture I managed to take while on a stroll along the river with N. We’re not totally sure about the rationale behind blow-torching a buffalo but I guess it must be something to do with preserving or preparing the leather. While I was taking this a supervisor shouted at me not to take any photographs so I'm glad I got this one.

Simi and Megan's Nepali Adventure

I am recently back form my first proper holiday here as Simi came out to visit for ten days. We had a fantastic time spent trekking, relaxing in Pokhara and walking in Kathmandu. The first day was a slight concern as we travelled by bus to Pokhara. We had decided to go over-land instead of flying so Simi could see a bit of the country but we had the worst weather I’ve ever experienced here. Constant rain, mist and fog in the valleys and gorges and very cold. I was getting a bit nervous when it was still like this on arrival in Pokhara but we ploughed on hiring our trekking equipment and getting our permits for the national park. After de-camping in the Vienna Lake Lodge I took Simi to the Rice Bowl restaurant where I have previously discovered cheese balls which are the most amazing treats in the world. I have never eaten them anywhere else (knowing my capacity for greed and new-found lack of self-restraint) but Simi’s arrival triggered the hunt for the best cheese balls so they were a regular order wherever we were. (We disagreed on the final outcome and I would say the originals are still the best while Simi plumped for those served at the Castle). We set off the next morning for an hour and a half drive to Nayapul where we started our trek. Kumar was our porter and had to struggle under the weight of our belongings. He was lovely but a bare-faced liar when it came to explaining distances and hours left to walk! The scenery was just stunning – we walked through little villages with beautiful guest houses draped in brightly coloured flowers and the Himalayas were so clear and breath-taking for the whole journey. In the end we were very lucky with the weather since the previous days rain had left the sky bright and clear. Also we came across lots of goats and several ‘trains’ of horses all brightly decorated which are used to transport goods along the routes. The trail caters very well for trekkers and there are shops and hotels right along the route.

Our first stop for the night was in Ulleri after a grueling climb up thousands of steps. The guest houses are lovely with the evenings being spent around a stove in the dining room and meeting other trekkers. The rooms are basic but we always had a twin room rather than a dorm which we weren’t expecting. The first night however turned out to be deeply traumatic. Just as I was nodding off to sleep I heard a loud flurry of scurrying and wing flappage right next to my head. We had an external wall and for the next few hours there were regular noises of something running up and down the wall which was so thin it felt as if the creatures were in the room with us. Immediately I crossed over to Simi’s bed but since they were smaller than your average single this was not a sustainable option. Eventually I pulled my bed across to Simi’s and slept away from the wall. Although we still had to contend with a noisy snorer who we initially mistook for a cow mooing.

The next day we expected things to be a little easier since we were told that we had broken the back of the journey by making it all the way to Ulleri. This was not the case however and it was still a difficult day. Made worse by the snow which we found out about from a couple of Korean girls who were trekking without a porter…but with a compass! They were clearly more professional than they were letting on as they found it hilarious that we had pyjamas with us. We didn’t mention the make-up bags we also hefted around. Anyway they informed us that the weather had been atrocious the day before. Luckily for us that was the end of it and it meant we enjoyed walking through a landscape strangely reminiscent of the Alps. Well, I enjoyed it. Simi had a bit more trouble and we regularly made a human chain with me in front holding one hand and Kumar behind holding the other much to the bemusement of other passing (and experienced) trekkers. There were still a few tumbles though and it was pretty hairy at times as there was generally a sheer drop on one side of the path. Still we finally made it to Ghorepani and were rewarded with a fantastic, clear view of the Annapurna range. The village was very picturesque and we pottered around for all of five minutes before collapsing in front of the stove again and eating for the rest of the evening.

I should also point out here that on discovery of the snow the previous evening and the sight of many peoples sopping wet shoes and socks I became a little obsessed with finding plastic bags to put around my feet, under my shoes. I thought this was genius and the porters also seemed to be impressed. I did manage to fashion my plastic booties later on and was looking forward to feeling smug when everyone else had wet feet but sadly despite my precautions it never really got wet and my invention was not put to the test.

Despite the exertions of the previous day the final day was undoubtedly the toughest. We rose at 5ish to clamber to the top of Poon Hill for sunrise. I was forced to cave in and for the first time purchased a Twix (I had been trying not to buy anything that needed packaging/importing) as I had no idea how anyone intended to climb for 3 hours before breakfast without a snack but this certainly appeared to be the case and even Simi managed it. What followed was a hideous walk in the dark, with a torch and our sticks. The walk seemed never-ending and we almost didn’t make it for the sunrise as a sliver of yellow opened up a good 20 minutes before we reached the summit. However we did finally get there and made a triumphant High Sticks as the sun came up. After much photography and gasping we shuffled back down the hill. I had my first (and only) fall when I ended up on my arse, while Simi rarely seemed to be standing (sorry hon, but it’s true). A quick breakfast and we were on our way again for a seven-hour mammoth push to the end.

The morning was spent in the snow before finally reaching dry ground. The day covered all types of landscape: terracing, mountainous, rocky but it was a long, long day with several perilous footbridges. By the time we reached Tatopani we were exhausted. After checking in to our little bungalow and doing a quick ‘Gecko Watch’ we headed down to the hot springs which were the climax of the trip. We had an uncomfortable few minutes undressing in the open air and having the obligatory wash before getting in. But once in we had a whale of a time. There was an eclectic range of music from the 90’s pumping out of the speakers (Blue: One Love, Shaggy: Angel) and we spent about two hours in the hot water only to get out and stagger up yet another staircase back to the hotel. Our joints and muscles were seizing up and we were shuffling about like a pair of Granny’s. This lasted well into the next day and we had trouble getting in and out of the bus to get back to Pokhara.

View from the cafe in Pokhara

Inside the Woh eatery

Our days in Pokhara were then restricted to pretty much doing nothing. We could hardly bear to climb into a rowing boat so we spent one day sitting at a café over looking the lake all day (also the day of the White Wine Fiasco) and the second day at a lovely resort in the hills behind our guest house featuring a (freezing cold) pool which could also be described as refreshing and a specialty dish of chocolate momos (in case I haven’t mentioned the momo’s yet these a small steamed dumplings of either vegetables, chicken or buff – they are tasty little bites and a sweet version was just the ticket and good to counter all the cheese balls). We also enjoyed a perfectly chilled bottle of rose as the sun went down. Pathetically we had to take a taxi back down to our hotel which was all of 200 yards away because of the calf and thigh pain.
The next day we took the return bus to Kathmandu and again managed to travel on a day of poor weather thus thwarting Simi’s final chance to view the countryside. Back home we headed out to Patan Durbar Square for a wander. This is a gorgeous part of town with fascinating architecture. I was trying to locate a tiny neighborhood food place which is renowned locally for it’s Newari cuisine. I had heard about it from a friend but never found it before. This time however we had directions and found a small doorway leading down a dark and greasy corridor. We psyched each other up to enter and eventually found ourselves at the end of the passageway and stepping into a low-ceilinged, dingy, dark room with small stools and low tables. There was dried meat hanging from the rafters. Two women were sitting on their haunches – one continually making a kind of pancake with an egg cracked onto one side and fried, the other surveying a range of pots of different curries. It was quite busy and we found ourselves a table. We weren’t quite sure what to do as there is no menu but we managed to befriend the waiter and I gestured to all the dishes asking for ‘alli alli’ of everything. I think Simi and I were so proud of ourselves for managing to find, pluck up the courage to enter, and order food that we ignored the fact that we weren’t really so taken with the food. Some of the dishes were tasty but it wasn’t overwhelming and I don’t really know why it’s so well regarded. Given that we had been receiving a fair few stares through out our meal we decided to make ourselves even less discreet by taking photographs. After this we had a wander round Thamel for souvenir shopping then headed to Or2K (Israeli restaurant) for dinner and drinks.

The next day, after Simi finally got a taste of Sunita’s amazing dahl bhat, which she compared to her own mothers cooking (big compliment for Sunita!), we walked over to Baber Mahal which is a smart shopping and restaurant complex. We decided against eating there and plumped for a South Indian place listed in the guide book. We took a micro which Simi thought was hilarious – I think the novelty has worn off on me! After lunch we took a wander around the back streets of the old town. Walking down New Road I spotted a sign for Kathmandu’s revolving restaurant. I couldn’t walk by without a quick look and am so glad I did. It was located at the top of a slightly worse for wear shopping complex. No lift, so we walked up the 4 or 5 floors to the roof-top. Inside the circular room there was one table of guests eating lunch but no revolving to speak of. After a quick chat to a waiter it turns out that it does revolve – we just happened to pop in during a power cut. We were told to return after load shedding! During this meander I also got my first taste of the festival of Holi. It sounds innocent enough according to this quote “This day, playful people especially the young ones wander through the streets in groups on foot or vehicles with various colors smeared all over them and the people in houses make merry throwing colors and water balloons at each other and also to these people on the streets”. It is not like this. Malevolent adolescents stand on upper storey balconies to bombard passers by with water balloons. I am now wary of all youths and dislike walking around outside school hours. So far I feel I have been lucky: the water bombs have only made it to my feet and I have not suffered with coloured dyes yet but I’m sure it’s only a matter of time. Holi itself is actually celebrated on Sunday but the kids start early and we’ve been warned not to walk around the centre of town on the day. Really not liking this celebration. In the evening we went to Lobsters for a drink at the bar – apparently the only place in Nepal where you can buy lobster which is not something I have been missing but good to know should I ever the need. We followed this with lunch at a pizza place despite an initial search for a good dahl bhat for Simi’s final night. The evening ended with our knowledge of alcohol being tested and rewarded (with more alcohol) by the food and drink consultant in charge of Moods – a bizarre Egyptian themed bar. Although I did need the decor explained to me as it was not immediately apparent (the photo above is us in Moods, see, not obvious).

Gutted that Simi had to leave me bereft. I was sorely tempted to get on the plane with her. Thanks for coming out - I had the best time and won't forget our trip, especially stretch-gate, Poon Hill-gate and Twix-gate xxx

Tiger central

I took a last-minute trip to Chitwan last weekend to meet up with my pal D who has been posted to another project for the time being. Chitwan is one of the closest national parks to Kathmandu and is a real tourist destination. I had hoped to go on Friday evening but was hindered by the fact that you can’t do anything in Nepal past about midday. The tourist buses all leave at 7am (if you believe the ticket – more likely 7.30) and the last local bus or jeep is at 2pm. So I had to resign myself to just one night away but we had a great time. I arrived at the hotel which was overlooking the river at about 1pm. The afternoon was spent on the back of an elephant stalking the local wildlife. Elephant-back is less relaxing than it looks. You sit on a platform (large enough for 4) which falsely gave me the impression of comfort and style. Elephants are however pretty ungainly in their gait and you constantly have to adjust yourself to the rhythm of their walk which basically means an hour and a half of working the core muscles.
Entering the park you realize that you are not the only people taking an elephant tour – there were some 15 to 20 elephants ferrying fellow tourists. Once in the forest though you feel as if you are on your own as each elephant (directed by a guide obviously) takes a different path so that you can’t see the others. We spotted lots of deer and several different types of bird but of course what we were all waiting for was the elusive rhinoceros. Suddenly we were on the trail and could glimpse a large rhino with its child through the undergrowth. Word then got out and soon enough all the other elephants came trotting up and the aggressive pursuit of the rhino family on to some open ground began. The culmination being the encircling of the poor beasts so we could all get our photographs. It was very exciting and I did enjoy it but I also felt guilty for putting the poor rhinos through such stress (although on the other hand they’re probably so used to it that it’s all a big act and they take it turns to play the leading role, perfecting their expressions of panic and fear). Sunday morning was the crocodile cruise which I know Chris will be thrilled to read about. Sitting in a hollowed out log being paddled down the river was fantastic. There were countless crocs sitting on the banks but mostly they were so still that D was prompted to ask if it was all a hoax and they were statues. Soon after this though one of them moved it’s head and gave us all a fright. It did make me wonder what would happen if one of them was in the water. It was fairly shallow and we were sitting in low-lying canoe. I consoled myself with the thought that the six of us could definitely take on one of them using the classic defence mechanism of going for the eyes. Two or more however and I would have been less confident. Our final brush with ‘wildlife’ was watching the elephants being washed at the beach overlooked by the hotel. There were four of them having a great time rolling around in the water. D and I fed bananas to one of them when it came out to dry off. It was pretty gross really – their tongues are like gigantic, pink slugs and you have to put your hand right into their mouth to feed them. And then it was all over. Almost. I had to get to the nearest town to catch to last bus (2pm) back to Kathmandu. The most common form of transport …a horse and cart! Brilliant. And as a connoisseur of local buses I was quite accustomed to the pace and level of comfort offered by the cart.

Oh, and I didn't see any tigers :(