I am recently back form my first proper holiday here as Simi came out to visit for ten days. We had a fantastic time spent trekking, relaxing in Pokhara and walking in Kathmandu. The first day was a slight concern as we travelled by bus to Pokhara. We had decided to go over-land instead of flying so Simi could see a bit of the country but we had the worst weather I’ve ever experienced here. Constant rain, mist and fog in the valleys and gorges and very cold. I was getting a bit nervous when it was still like this on arrival in Pokhara but we ploughed on hiring our trekking equipment and getting our permits for the national park. After de-camping in the Vienna Lake Lodge I took Simi to the Rice Bowl restaurant where I have previously discovered cheese balls which are the most amazing treats in the world. I have never eaten them anywhere else (knowing my capacity for greed and new-found lack of self-restraint) but Simi’s arrival triggered the hunt for the best cheese balls so they were a regular order wherever we were. (We disagreed on the final outcome and I would say the originals are still the best while Simi plumped for those served at the Castle). We set off the next morning for an hour and a half drive to Nayapul where we started our trek. Kumar was our porter and had to struggle under the weight of our belongings. He was lovely but a bare-faced liar when it came to explaining distances and hours left to walk! The scenery was just stunning – we walked through little villages with beautiful guest houses draped in brightly coloured flowers and the Himalayas were so clear and breath-taking for the whole journey. In the end we were very lucky with the weather since the previous days rain had left the sky bright and clear. Also we came across lots of goats and several ‘trains’ of horses all brightly decorated which are used to transport goods along the routes. The trail caters very well for trekkers and there are shops and hotels right along the route.
Our first stop for the night was in Ulleri after a grueling climb up thousands of steps. The guest houses are lovely with the evenings being spent around a stove in the dining room and meeting other trekkers. The rooms are basic but we always had a twin room rather than a dorm which we weren’t expecting. The first night however turned out to be deeply traumatic. Just as I was nodding off to sleep I heard a loud flurry of scurrying and wing flappage right next to my head. We had an external wall and for the next few hours there were regular noises of something running up and down the wall which was so thin it felt as if the creatures were in the room with us. Immediately I crossed over to Simi’s bed but since they were smaller than your average single this was not a sustainable option. Eventually I pulled my bed across to Simi’s and slept away from the wall. Although we still had to contend with a noisy snorer who we initially mistook for a cow mooing.
The next day we expected things to be a little easier since we were told that we had broken the back of the journey by making it all the way to Ulleri. This was not the case however and it was still a difficult day. Made worse by the snow which we found out about from a couple of Korean girls who were trekking without a porter…but with a compass! They were clearly more professional than they were letting on as they found it hilarious that we had pyjamas with us. We didn’t mention the make-up bags we also hefted around. Anyway they informed us that the weather had been atrocious the day before. Luckily for us that was the end of it and it meant we enjoyed walking through a landscape strangely reminiscent of the Alps. Well, I enjoyed it. Simi had a bit more trouble and we regularly made a human chain with me in front holding one hand and Kumar behind holding the other much to the bemusement of other passing (and experienced) trekkers. There were still a few tumbles though and it was pretty hairy at times as there was generally a sheer drop on one side of the path. Still we finally made it to Ghorepani and were rewarded with a fantastic, clear view of the Annapurna range. The village was very picturesque and we pottered around for all of five minutes before collapsing in front of the stove again and eating for the rest of the evening.
I should also point out here that on discovery of the snow the previous evening and the sight of many peoples sopping wet shoes and socks I became a little obsessed with finding plastic bags to put around my feet, under my shoes. I thought this was genius and the porters also seemed to be impressed. I did manage to fashion my plastic booties later on and was looking forward to feeling smug when everyone else had wet feet but sadly despite my precautions it never really got wet and my invention was not put to the test.
Despite the exertions of the previous day the final day was undoubtedly the toughest. We rose at 5ish to clamber to the top of Poon Hill for sunrise. I was forced to cave in and for the first time purchased a Twix (I had been trying not to buy anything that needed packaging/importing) as I had no idea how anyone intended to climb for 3 hours before breakfast without a snack but this certainly appeared to be the case and even Simi managed it. What followed was a hideous walk in the dark, with a torch and our sticks. The walk seemed never-ending and we almost didn’t make it for the sunrise as a sliver of yellow opened up a good 20 minutes before we reached the summit. However we did finally get there and made a triumphant High Sticks as the sun came up. After much photography and gasping we shuffled back down the hill. I had my first (and only) fall when I ended up on my arse, while Simi rarely seemed to be standing (sorry hon, but it’s true). A quick breakfast and we were on our way again for a seven-hour mammoth push to the end.
The morning was spent in the snow before finally reaching dry ground. The day covered all types of landscape: terracing, mountainous, rocky but it was a long, long day with several perilous footbridges. By the time we reached Tatopani we were exhausted. After checking in to our little bungalow and doing a quick ‘Gecko Watch’ we headed down to the hot springs which were the climax of the trip. We had an uncomfortable few minutes undressing in the open air and having the obligatory wash before getting in. But once in we had a whale of a time. There was an eclectic range of music from the 90’s pumping out of the speakers (Blue: One Love, Shaggy: Angel) and we spent about two hours in the hot water only to get out and stagger up yet another staircase back to the hotel. Our joints and muscles were seizing up and we were shuffling about like a pair of Granny’s. This lasted well into the next day and we had trouble getting in and out of the bus to get back to Pokhara.
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