Culture Vulture

Something I have been meaning to do for a long time now is visit a few tourist attractions in the city and I finally managed it today. Along with another volunteer I climbed the Bhimsen Tower in the city centre. At 213 steps high my declining level of fitness was evident as I huffed and puffed all the way up (which does not bode well for my impending trek). The view from the top was good although it was a very hazy day so no sight of the mountains. Later I sat in the gardens to do some sketching – very civilized. Until you see the sketch at least.

After this we meandered over to the Royal Palace, which is described in the Lonely Planet as “like something out of Buck Rogers” and it really is. Sadly the palace was the scene of a gruesome tragedy in 2001 when the Crown Prince shot and killed nine members of his immediate family, including the then King and Queen, before committing suicide. But put this to one side during the visit (which isn’t hard since for the most part there is no mention of it, nor is there any historical information, or guide book for sale – a unbelievable missed opportunity by the tourist board) and you will have a fabulous time. It’s a pretty frugal palace by global royal standards and caught in a time warp. I would describe it as a large-scale recreation of your Granny’s living room. You’re not allowed to take any photographs but luckily I had my sketchbook to record a few gems. In many rooms wooden and glass display cabinets (reminiscent of suburban homes UK-wide) yielded a wonderful range of ornaments with neither poor quality nor design being any kind of impediment to exhibition. There were many gifts from foreign dignitaries on show, including a small plastic paperweight from the Mayor of New York in the early 1980’s (an indicator that nothing is too small to be on show). I noted down “chintzy curtains, dated glass chandeliers, Hummel ornaments, ruched blinds, hostess trolleys, wood paneling, formica tables, 50’s style furniture”. And my personal favourite several intricate works by the ‘shell wizard’ (picture frames and mirrors decorated with sea shells). What Queen Elizabeth made of it (on her 1983 visit) I dread to think. It was a vision of pure kitsch, each room more fascinating than the room before and a treasure trove for students of design. One room (the ceremonial coronation hall) has a futuristic (for it’s day) atmosphere with each corner hosting a giant noodle (according to Carol - otherwise large white cylinders) rising from the floor before branching into two near the ceiling and proudly presenting enameled pictures of some of the gods. It really is something else. Built in the 1960’s I can’t imagine it was ever up-to-date and my companion for the day hypothesized that it was the lack of taste which finally sent the prince over the edge.

Sorry for the lack of photo’s recently, I’ll get some up soon – just waiting for other people to forward them to me.