I had to get over to the refuge yesterday evening after being in the office all day. I knew I would be cutting it fine by leaving at about 5.45pm since buses stop sometime before 8pm but things started well as I managed to hail a bus immediately for the bus station (a first as I usually take a taxi). Then it all went wrong at Lagankhel. The sun was beginning to set and the buses were already low on frequency. There were a couple in the first 15 minutes that I couldn't get on - at least three people hanging out of each bus and several hundred inside. Then there was nothing for about 20 minutes. It was getting dark and a power cut took out the light from the lamp-posts. Just at the time when I was about to get a taxi a bus arrived. I didn't think I would get on it but a man who I had been talking to couldn't get on with all his family and propelled me forward in a (sorely misguided) act of generosity to make sure that I got a space. And a very small space at that. I was standing. Well, trying to. Often Nepali's can stand in the buses with a mere tilt of the head or a slight bow. I was bent double. If I tried to lift my head I could only see the floor as my head and shoulders were jammed against the roof. This was pretty uncomfortable. And I think I must have looked ridiculous as I got a lot of sympathetic/puzzled stares. Still we set off and I was thinking "it can't get any worse". Then we stopped and 3 more people got on. I could no longer hold on to any part of the bus but there was little chance I could fall over due to sardine-like set up. If parents with babies or little one's get on they seem to just pass the child to whoever has lap space. After about 15 minutes I did get a seat although it was hardly less busy and by that stage I was panicking in case I passed my stop since it was now pitch black and I could hardly see outside. Thankfully this didn't happen but I have learnt my lesson about getting evening buses.
The reason for my trip to the refuge was to help out on a day trip today. So begins part 2 of my problem with buses. We were going to Nargarkot in the hills to watch sunrise. We were to get up at 3am to make it there for 6am. I was vaguely enthusiastic but it's the kind of thing I would prefer to do without 30 children. Anyway, for the second time I was happy to get what I thought was a good seat at the front of the bus. (From now on I will seek out what appears to be the worst seat on any public transport because at least I won't be disappointed). After I got on the picnic was loaded on. Onto the bench seat in front on me. The food was a soup-y curry in large vats with no air tight seal. Just a plate covering it. (The picture above is from after breakfast so you just have to imagine the large pot with a plate on the top). Predictably the combination of shuddering bus, sharp swerves and steep inclines meant that within the hour my (best) jeans and pale sandals were stained yellow with turmeric and I spent the rest of the day picking pieces of onion and tomato from my clothes. Oh, and the small girl on my lap was sick from the moment we set off until we arrived so as well as trying to curtail the steady stream of food from my knees to my ankles I was doing my best to direct her head into a sick bag.
Other factors adding to my bus-phobia were the fact that I realised I was sitting next to the emergency exit only when it slowly started to swing open and I nearly lost the bottle of water next to me. I spent the rest of the trip tightly gripping on to the handle.
And finally the on-the-spot maintenance which consisted of taking a hammer to various parts of the engine/wheels when unusual noises were heard.
But I have posted the photo above to show that it wasn't all bad - this is the mountains at sunrise.
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